Heat the olive oil in a large pan (big enough to hold the pasta as well), add the “guanciale” (cut into strips and then cubes) and the chilli and/or black pepper. Cook over a high heat for a few seconds, then lower the heat and continue until the “guanciale” is brown and crispy. Pour in the wine and let it evaporate, then remove the pieces of meat and keep them warm, leaving a little of their fat in the pan. Put the thinly sliced onion into it and cook over a moderate heat. When it turns golden brown, add the chopped tomatoes (if you use fresh San Marzano tomatoes, peel them first) and simmer until you have a smooth, fairly dense sauce (it should take around 10 minutes). As it cooks, stir frequently, crushing the pieces of tomato with the tip of a spoon, and season with salt if necessary. In the meanwhile cook the rigatoni in plenty of salted water, and strain them when “al dente”. Put the pieces of “guanciale” back into the pan with the sauce, tip in the pasta and toss everything together to mix it thoroughly. Grind some pepper on top, add a good sprinkling of grated pecorino to finish off, and serve piping hot. The name Amatriciana literally means “from Amatrice”, a small town in the region of Lazio that is famous for this delicious dish (one of the most important sauces of traditional Italian cuisine). Amatrice was sadly struck by an earthquake in 2016, which destroyed much of its antique urban framework and precious works of art.