Use a sharp knife to cut the ribs apart. In a heavy-bottomed frying pan, sauté the cloves of garlic, rosemary and bay leaves, the latter ripped up by hand, with the olive oil.

When the garlic is golden brown, remove it and add the spare ribs; let them brown, turning frequently. If too much liquid should form in the pan, strain it off and, only then, add the peeled tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper and cook for about half an hour: the ribs are ready when the meat comes away from the bone easily. Just before turning off the heat, add the olives, stir well and then serve the spare ribs straight away, while they’re still nice and hot.

(1) “Rosticciana”, or “Costoliccio” in the dialect of Arezzo, is the name used for pork spare ribs in Tuscany and upper part of the region of Lazio; they are cooked on a barbecue, or on the stove in a well-heated grill pan or frying pan. In our area they are also often prepared in a stewed version, which is a popular recipe, in particular in the countryside.