Ingredients for 4 people:1 hare weighing approx. 2.5 kg2 slices “rigatino” pancetta or fatty cured ham (approx. 150 g)200 ml Vino Novo4-5 tbsp tomato passata (or 3 tsp tomato concentrate)½ l meat broth1 sprig of thyme1 sprig of parsley1 sprig of rosemary5 tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil1 bay leaf salt pepper1 l red wine200 ml red wine vinegar2 red onions2 cloves1 clove of garlic1 carrot2 bay leaves2 stalks of celery6 juniper berries10 peppercorns100 g pine nuts100 g raisins25 g candied citron25 g candied orange peel50 g dark chocolate2 tbsp red wine vinegar2 tbsp water2 Cavallucci biscuits from Siena (optional, but they’re very good in it!)
The hare – cleaned, washed and divided into large pieces – must be marinated for 12/16 hours in the red wine and vinegar, together with a whole onion with the cloves stuck into it, the other onion, celery and carrot all chopped, a squashed clove of garlic, 2 bay leaves broken into 2-3 pieces, the juniper berries and the peppercorns. The marinade needs to cover the meat; if the quantity of liquid is insufficient, increase it by adding more wine. Every now and again, move the meat and mix everything.
When it has marinated for long enough, strain and dry the meat; heat it in a heavy-bottomed frying pan so that it releases any unwanted liquid. Chop the sprigs of rosemary, thyme and parsley. Strain the marinade and set the liquid aside. Heat the oil in a large pan, add the chopped herbs, the chopped “rigatino”, the bay leaf and the vegetables from the marinade. Sauté everything, then add the pieces of hare (without the liquid that they released). When they have browned, pour in 200 ml of Vino Novo wine and let it evaporate over a high heat. Add the tomato passata (or concentrate), stir and cook for about 10 minutes. Pour in half of the liquid from the marinade and the broth (setting aside a little), season with salt and pepper – take care not to add too much, if necessary taste again at the end – and leave to cook for roughly 2 hours. Try “perforating” the meat with a fork to test its consistency: when it’s ready it’ll be tender. If necessary, add some more hot broth.
In the meanwhile, prepare the “dolceforte” sauce: dilute the vinegar with 2 spoonfuls of water and melt the chocolate in it, over a very low heat, stirring constantly; add the pine nuts, raisins (previously soaked in hot water for 10 minutes and squeezed to eliminate the liquid) and candied peel, then turn off the heat. If you like you can also add the chopped Cavallucci biscuits. About 10 minutes before the hare is ready, remove the pan from the stove, and blend or very finely chop the vegetables and the cooking juices; pour this mixture back over the hare, slowly add the “dolceforte” sauce and amalgamate everything. Now cook for 10 minutes over a low heat, stirring delicately. Leave this magnificent, ancient, delicious dish – fit for a king! – to rest for at least 10-15 minutes in its pan, and then serve.
(1) “Dolceforte” (literally “sweet and strong”) is one of the most ancient ways of preparing meat, typical of the cuisine of Florence and Siena; traces of it can be found in recipe books dating back to the 16th century. It probably has its origins in the Renaissance period, when sweet and strong-savoury flavours were combined during banquets: for example there was the so-called “servizio di credenza”, a sort of buffet of appetizers which also included various sweet delicacies. The recipe was used for hare, wild boar and beef tongue; they were special dishes, used for important occasions. Dishes prepared with “dolceforte” are now almost impossible to come across, both in restaurants and private homes. They require lengthy preparation, and don’t reflect the “evolution” and simplification of taste. Good luck and our compliments to those who may wish to “take a leap” into ancient Tuscan cuisine, and taste flavours that have almost disappeared. In the typical recipe for dolceforte from Siena, they used to add a few Cavallucci biscuits, some chopped almonds and a spoonful of honey.